Missing Lintels, an Ancient Ladder, and a New Floor: the Complicated Care-taking of the Holy Sepulchre
When pilgrims and visitors to Jerusalem arrive at the Holy Sepulchre, it is not uncommon for them to experience a series of emotions when they first see the entrance. Awe, wonder, and excitement are among the most common reaction, but many also comment on the physical appearance of the complex. Indeed, those who have visited St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and expect a similar display of architectural and aesthetic beauty can be in for a bit of a surprise.
True, the Holy Sepulchre is much older than St. Peter’s basilica; much older, in fact. But it is not simply the aged appearance of both the interior and exterior of the Holy Sepulchre that gives off the impression of a haphazard, seemingly disheveled complex. There is little aesthetic harmony between the different components of the Holy Sepulchre that include Golgotha, the edicule (tomb of Christ), and the many various chapels that each recall an important moment in the Passion and Resurrection of Christ.
Why is this the case?
For over a millennium, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre has been shared (and often contested), between the primary Christian denominations of the Holy Land: the Roman Catholic Church, represented by the Franciscan Custos of the Holy Land, the Orthodox Church, represented by the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate of Jerusalem, and Armenian Apostolic Church. A power-sharing system first imposed and enforced by the ruling Ottoman Turkish was then passed on to the British, then possibly one, two, or all three governmental bodies of the region, representing Jordanian, Israeli, and Palestinian national interests. This system is also in place at the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem.
The system is notoriously complicated and intricate, with mundane matters such as simple cleaning tasks requiring a rigid protocol to be enforced. Even the large ancient key that opens and locks the door of the Holy Sepulchre is shared between two Muslim families as a hereditary responsibility so that no Christian community gains full control of the church over another.
Two such examples of how complex the matter can be are visible right at the entrance of the Holy Sepulchre. Looking above the doors of the church, one notices two things: marked stones where lintels were once placed, and an ancient wooden ladder placed on a balcony.
The ornate lintels, two large blocks of carved marble that depict two complimentary scenes: the Passion story from the Raising of Lazarus to the Resurrection, and a more abstract depiction of unclothed men, mythical beasts, and some imagery associated with evil. These two panels represent both the downfall of mankind through sin and his redemption through Christ and his Passion and Resurrection. The lintels are presently on display at the Rockefeller Museum, located opposite Herod’s Gate a short distance from the Holy Sepulchre, after being removed in the 1930s due to their deteriorating condition and structural concerns. While living behind unsightly marks, the complications of either restoring or replacing them are manifold, as each religious community would first have to agree on the nature of any restoration or renovation, and then have their decision approved or at least recognized by the appropriate government bodies representing Israeli, Jordanian and Palestinian concerns.
With regards to the ancient ladder on the balcony; the ladder has been in place since 1728, and while it is attributed as being owned by the caretakers of the Armenian portions of the Holy Sepulchre, the matter of the ladder and its position grew to be so complicated that an official decree was issued by the Ottoman rulers that the ladder may not be removed unless approved by all six represented church communities which have established rights in the Holy Sepulchre. Hence, the ladder is known to have been moved only twice in nearly three hundred years!
There have, however, been some more promising signs of cooperation since the second half of the twentieth century. Two major renovation projects, one undertaken over several decades on the dome of the Holy Sepulchre after the founding of the state of Israel, and only finally completed last decade, and a second, much briefer but equally important project, was to restore the edicule, occurred between 2016 and 2017. A third project, currently underway, is to renovate the stone flooring of the complex. Already an interesting find has occured: the discovery that the hidden side of a large stone slab propped up against a wall of the Holy Sepulchre was in fact an ornately decorated component of a high altar from the time of the Crusades.
Today, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is undoubtedly in better condition than at any time in its history since the ending of Christian rule. Work to improve the site will be incessant and never-ceasing, nor will the challenges that come with coordinating efforts between the various churches and governmental authorities. Through all of these challenges, pilgrims will continue to come and see their time in the Holy Sepulchre as a life-changing experience in their understanding of their faith.
Want to learn more about the history of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre?
Saving the Holy Sepulchre: How Rival Christians Came Together to Rescue their Holiest Shrine by Raymond Cohen provides an in-depth look at the history of the Holy Sepulchre, the challenges, and ultimately the success of the first phase of the renovation as organized between the different churches and governments who act as caretakers of the most sacred space of Christendom.
Journey to the Holy Land!
Good Shepherd Travel includes multiple days in Jerusalem as part of our Holy Land pilgrimages along with Nazareth and the Galilee, Bethlehem, Jericho, the Jordan River, and the Dead Sea. Other popular pilgrimage tours to locations such as Rome, Lourdes, Fatima, and Ireland are also available. For more information on how to begin preparing for a pilgrimage in late 2022 and 2023, contact Good Shepherd Travel owner and manager, Tony AbuAita at Tony@goodshepherdtravel.com.